Trois jours à Och, puis direction le lac Toktogul et Song Kul,

  • Le 12/11/2021
  • 76 commentaires

De lac en lac...


La Pamir est terminée, nous voilà déjà au Kirghizistan ! Nous redescendons tranquillement des montagnes, la chaleur revient, les paysages sont de plus en plus verts. Nous atteignons Och où nous allons rester 3 jours en compagnie de Rosto un Allemand avec une Africa Twin et Emma la chienne de la famille surnommée le cochon ^^ Rosto est malheureusement coincé ici car le réservoir d’huile de son amortisseur est cassée…


Nous prenons le temps de nous reposer après notre virée au Tadjikistan, les motos ont besoin d’un bon coup de Kärcher, Edouard démonte tous les axes de roue pour les nettoyer et les graisser, il décape les chaines, et nous fabriquons des chaussettes avec un tee-shirt pour la fourche de la GS.



Nous voilà fin prêt à repartir, mais ce matin après le petit déjeuner il se met à pleuvoir des cordes, tant pis nous repartirons demain matin ! ^^ Nous en profitons pour découvrir un peu mieux la ville, nous nous baladons sur la montagne Sulaiman-Too et dans le bazar Jayma.




Le soir nous retrouvons notre ami Islandais Gusdmundur qui loge dans une autre guesthouse avec deux autres couples de motards, Roger et Suzanne des Anglais avec des BMW F650GS (comme moi ^^) et Bruce et Kyla des Ecossais avec des Yamaha WR250, nous passons la soirée ensemble autour d’un bon repas.


L’heure du départ a sonné nous revoilà sur la route, nous avons choisi de suivre la M41 pour rejoindre le lac Toktogul.


Après coup nous réalisons que ce n’est peut-être pas le meilleur itinéraire en terme de paysages… Il fait chaud, la route est asphaltée, il y a beaucoup de circulation… Malgré tout le lac est beau, nous trouvons une guesthouse pour la nuit mais nous ne nous attardons pas.


Le lendemain nous continuons sur la M41, nous passons un col à 3000 et quelques mètres, tout est vert ici, ça ressemble aux Alpes avec les yourtes et les chevaux en plus ! Sur la route un policier essaie de nous stopper, il sort de derrière sa voiture avec le téléphone sur l’oreille, il a l’air très en colère et nous fait signe de nous arrêter… Mais Edouard continue son chemin, du coup je fais de même comme si de rien de n’était ! Il ne nous poursuivra pas, d’ailleurs ils ne poursuivent personne… ils sont trop feignants, ce qui les intéresse c’est de récupérer de l’argent ! Nous avons entendu des témoignages de voyageurs qui ont payé jusqu’à 200 dollars pour pouvoir récupérer leurs passeports ! Donc règle numéro 1 ; ne pas s’arrêter, règle numéro 2 (si vous êtes obligé de vous arrêter) ; donner une copie du passeport et règle numéro 3 (si vous êtes obligé de payer) ; ne garder que des petites coupures dans votre portefeuille, ils ont tendance à regarder à l’intérieur !

À la base nous devions nous rendre à Bichkek mais nous laissons tomber, il y fait plus de 40 degrés et c’est une grande ville de plus… Nous coupons par une route qui paraît asphaltée sur la carte, ce n’est absolument pas le cas mais la piste est bonne et nous avons le plaisir d’observer des paysages plus sympas.



En fin d’après-midi nous arrivons près du lac, c’est certainement un des plus beaux coins du Kirghizistan ! Perché à environ 3000 mètres d’altitude, le lac est immense il y a des pleines à perte de vu, l’herbe ressemble à de la pelouse. Les bergers viennent ici l’été avec leurs troupeaux de moutons, de vaches, de yaks et de chevaux. Nous cherchons un camp de yourte pour passer la nuit mais au vu des prix exorbitant nous plantons la tente ! Ce n’est pas plus mal d’ailleurs, nous passons une super soirée, nous en profitons pour nous baigner et nous dégustons les plats lyophilisés qui nous ont gentiment été offert par Thierry en Iran ! Que demander de plus !





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